Specialty printing finishes like foiling, embossing, white ink, and letterpress can transform a design from basic to brilliant. These effects bring tactile depth, shimmer, and professionalism that digital screens simply can’t replicate. But here’s the catch, these finishes require precisely prepared files. Unfortunately, designs exported from Canva, screenshots, or common image formats like JPG and PNG often lack the structure we need.
If you’re investing in high-end printing, your artwork should be set up correctly from the start to avoid unnecessary delays, extra costs, or compromised results. This guide explains exactly what we need from you and why it matters.
What We Need (and Why)
Vector Files Only
We only accept artwork set up in vector format, using scalable lines and curves, not pixel grids. This is essential for accurate printing plates or blocks, especially for delicate finishes such as foil stamping or embossing.
Vector Vs Raster (What is the difference?)
What is a Raster File?
A raster file, sometimes called a bitmap, is an image made up of a grid of tiny squares known as pixels. Each pixel holds specific colour information and when viewed together these pixels form the complete picture. Photographs, screen-captures and digital artwork with subtle gradients are usually saved as raster images. For printing, this is not a suitable file type.
What is a Vector File?
A vector file is not made of dots or pixels but of mathematically defined points, lines and curves. Each shape is described by a precise equation rather than a fixed grid. This means the artwork is resolution independent: expand it to billboard size or shrink it to a business-card stamp, and every edge remains perfectly sharp. By contrast, raster formats such as PNG or JPG approximate images with a matrix of coloured pixels, which blur or pixelate when scaled. With vectors, you get truly accurate, infinitely scalable artwork every time.
Why Vectors?
Vector graphics are resolution-independent. Whether you’re printing a tiny swing tag or a metre-wide poster, vector shapes stay sharp. They’re also easier to manipulate
For example, we can isolate foil areas, apply finishing layers, or separate colour plates without redrawing anything. These files give us full control during the prepress phase, which leads to better, cleaner results.
Acceptable file types:
- .AI (Adobe Illustrator) (Preferred)
- .EPS (Preferred)
- .PDF (must be exported properly from a vector-based program)
- .SVG
Unusable file types:
- .JPG, .PNG, .GIF, .PSD
- Canva exports
- Screenshots or low-res web images
Raster formats (pixel-based files) might look fine on your screen but fall apart under scrutiny. They blur when scaled and can’t support proper separation for foiling or other finishes. Even saving a JPG as a PDF doesn’t solve this, it’s still a pixel file, just in a different wrapper.
Infinitely Scalable Images
When you try to enlarge a raster image, like a JPG or PNG, the software simply stretches its fixed grid of pixels, so edges become jagged and details look blurry as each pixel grows in size. Shrinking a raster image can likewise discard pixels and obscure fine elements. By contrast, a SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics) file is built from mathematical equations rather than pixels, so you can shrink it down to icon size or blow it up to billboard dimensions without any loss of quality. This true scalability makes SVGs perfect for logos, icons and any artwork that needs to look crisp at every size.
Why Not Raster Files?
Printing depends on images that can scale cleanly, maintain sharp edges and reproduce colours accurately on paper. Raster files fall short for a few key reasons:
Resolution dependence
Each pixel in a raster image has a fixed size. If you enlarge a raster file beyond its native resolution, those pixels enlarge too, producing visible blockiness or “pixelation.”
Huge file sizes at print-ready resolutions
To avoid pixelation you need very high DPI (dots per inch), typically 300 DPI or more. Those high-resolution files can become extremely large, slowing down design software and print workflows.
Colour-mode mismatch
Most raster images are created in the RGB (red/green/blue) colour space used by screens. Commercial printers use CMYK (cyan/magenta/yellow/black), so RGB files must be converted, often resulting in shifted or muted colours.
Lack of print-specific features
Raster formats don’t embed crop marks, bleed areas or spot-colour definitions, all of which are essential for professional print layouts and accurate trimming.
No infinite scalability
If you ever need the same asset at a different size (for example a small business card logo and a large poster), you must re-export a new, high-resolution raster file each time.
For these reasons we always use vector files for print. They remain infinitely sharp at any size, keep file sizes manageable and support all the specialised requirements of commercial printing.
Why Canva Files Don’t Work
Canva is user-friendly and great for digital content, but it lacks the technical flexibility required for professional print production.
Here’s why:
- Canva exports are flattened, pixel-based images
- You can’t create layers or spot colours
- The default resolution is often too low
- Fonts and linework are frequently too thin for specialty finishes
- It doesn’t support advanced print settings like overprint or registration marks
Even PDFs exported from Canva are usually not true vectors. They’re often just high-resolution images embedded in a PDF container. That means we can’t isolate foil areas, check line weights, or create the necessary dies for specialty finishes. If you’ve designed something in Canva that you love, we can help recreate it properly in
Illustrator or another professional design tool (this may incur an artwork setup fee). You’ll get a better outcome and a file you can use again in the future.
How to Set Up Your Artwork for Special Effects
If your order includes foiling, embossing, white ink, or similar finishes, your file needs to be built for production. That means:
Separate Layers or Pages
For artwork with more than one finish (e.g. digital print + foil), you must supply a multi-page PDF:
- Page 1: Your full-colour print elements only
- Page 2: Foil, white ink, or emboss areas in solid black
- Page 3: A visual mockup showing how it should look when combined
These separate pages help us create the plates, blocks, or masks needed for each part of the print job. It also reduces the chance of misalignment or production errors.
Spot Colour Setup
Use a dedicated spot colour swatch (e.g. named “Foil”) for any special finish. Colour it in 100% black (C:0 M:0 Y:0 K:100). Do not use gradients, transparency, or multiple colours, these confuse the process.
In programs like Adobe Illustrator, you can create this swatch easily and apply it to all foil or emboss elements. Setting the elements to overprint in the Attributes panel also helps avoid knockout issues during plate separation.
Line Weights
Minimum line weight for foil or emboss is 0.5pt. Anything thinner may not transfer cleanly onto the foil block or embossing die. Thin lines can flake off, fill in, or disappear entirely. Similarly, fonts smaller than 8pt, especially if serif or script, are not recommended for specialty finishes. Stick with bold, clean shapes for best results.
CMYK Colour Mode
Your artwork must be set up in CMYK, not RGB. This ensures the colours you see are as close as possible to what will be printed.
RGB is designed for screens and uses light to mix colours. In contrast, CMYK relies on ink. The colour ranges are different, and files left in RGB can look muted or inaccurate when printed. If you’re unsure, check your document settings before exporting.
Outlined Fonts
Always convert your fonts to outlines before sending final files. This prevents missing font issues on our end, which can completely alter the look of your
design. Once text is outlined, it becomes a shape, keeping your layout safe, consistent, and editable for plate separation.
Common Print Effects We Offer (and Their Requirements)
Foiling
Foiling uses heat and pressure to apply metallic or pigmented foil onto the paper surface. It’s ideal for logos, monograms, borders, or key headings.
- Requires vector paths
- All foil areas must be in 100% black on a separate layer or page
- Avoid using gradients, shadows, or effects
- Works best with bold shapes and clean lines
Embossing & Debossing
Embossing raises your artwork off the page, whilst debossing presses it into the paper. Both effects add texture and luxury to your design.
- Must be supplied in vector format
- Keep artwork simple for best results
- Too much detail can result in blurry or cracked impressions
Embossing adds tactile depth, but also slightly shifts the paper fibres, meaning too-thin lines or intricate type may distort or collapse.
Spot UV / Spot Gloss
Spot UV adds a glossy coating to specific areas of your design. It’s typically used to highlight logos, titles, or background textures.
- Design Spot UV areas as solid shapes in 100% black
- Avoid fine detail or very thin lines
- Works best with contrast (e.g. gloss on matte paper)
White Ink
White ink allows you to print on darker or coloured stock. It can sit beneath other colours or stand alone for subtle effects.
- Treat white ink like foil: use a separate layer or page
- Use solid shapes, not transparency or gradients
- Ensure it’s clearly defined so we can generate a print plate
Bonus Tips for a Flawless Print Result
- Add 3mm bleed around all edges of your artwork
- Keep text and key design elements at least 3mm inside the trim area
- Don’t rely on perfect alignment between foil and print, slight shifts are normal
- Avoid using shadows, feathering, or filter effects in foil or emboss areas
- Stick with solid, bold elements for reliable transfers
Every specialty finish has its own quirks. For example, foil can slightly expand when heat is applied, and digital print can move by 1–2mm. These minor shifts are part of the process, which is why we always recommend avoiding tight overlays between print and foil.
Need Help With Your File?
We’re always happy to review your files before they go to print. If anything looks off, or if your artwork isn’t suitable for the finish you’ve requested, we’ll let you know.
We can also:
- Recreate raster files as print-ready vector files
- Build multi-page PDFs for you
- Adjust line weights and layers to meet press requirements
Let us help you get the best results. When your files are set up right, the end product not only looks better — it prints faster, smoother, and without any surprise costs.
Still Unsure About Your File?
Just email us your artwork and we’ll double-check it before it hits the press.